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The Green Transition in Morocco’s Garment and Textile Industry: Green Squeeze or Green Push?

Josh White is a Doctoral Researcher at the University of Sheffield. His research explores the green transition within the export industries of the MENA region, with a particular focus on the Moroccan garment and textile sector.

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Abstract

The green transition is reshaping the global garment and textile sector through new environmental regulations, supply chain governance shifts, and evolving geopolitical alignments. Morocco, with its proximity to EU markets, expanding renewable capacity, and integration into EU-connected value chains, is the most suitable candidate for green manufacturing. This setting creates a "green push" that enhances the competitiveness of the industry globally.

However, this opportunity comes with a so-called "green squeeze": companies in Morocco, largely confined to low value-added quick fashion operations, bear the financial and administrative costs of sustainability compliance without capturing commensurate value. The resulting pressure on profit margins and work conditions risks undermining both economic and social development goals.

In order to maximize the potential of this transition, both the commercial and governmental sectors must cooperate to push vertical integration, support technical and financial improvements, and promote ethical and sustainable practices throughout the industry. The broader implications highlight the need for structural reform in Morocco's export sectors to ensure long-term, equitable, and sustainable growth.

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